The Innovator: Chef Gene Gonzales

(originally published in 100 Magazine, 2009, 2nd edition)

Who would have thought that a former banker would turn out to be one of the most successful restaurateurs in the country? That’s the story of Chef Gene Gonzales, who, despite everyone’s skepticism, became one of the most popular chefs in the local culinary scene. When he decided to open Café Ysabel in 1981 without any experience in restaurant or business management, he went through a hard time. Good thing Susan Roces was just around the corner, and rented out a part of their home in Wilson St., San Juan. Since then, the humble 11-table restaurant has become one of the best restaurants in the country.

Something Old, Something New

“Café Ysabel has always been an innovator,” shares Ched Gene. Part of what made it so successful is its willingness to try new things. One of the myths that Café Ysabel has busted was that chocolate can not be served all throughout the meal, a feat that the restaurant pioneered in the country. Another is that cigars couldn’t be paired with meals, which Chef Gene has also disproved. Another thing that sets Café Ysabel apart from all other restaurants is its homey ambiance. Stepping inside the restaurant is like stepping back in time. “The ambiance is not contrived, it’s never manufactured,” boasts Chef Gene of the refurbished 1920’s home which houses Café Ysabel today.

Thousands of Islands, Thousands of Dishes

Now that he has established himself as a restaurateur, Chef Gene now seeks to conquer the world with Filipino food. He says that he is still in pursuit of his dream to put Filipino cuisine on the world map. “We have an archipelago of a few thousand islands, and if there’s a unique dish for every island, it will take you more than a lifetime to try all of them,” shares Chef Gene. In order to do this, the great chef says that it has to start with the Filipino. Before the world can appreciate Filipino food, Filipinos themselves need to appreciate it better. And to do that, Filipinos need to be more knowledgeable about the food they eat, which Chef Gene also advocates. In late 1999 to early 2000, Chef Gene established the Center for Asian Culinary Studies, where he shares his mastery of the craft to those who are willing. Along with some of the best chefs in the country, Chef Gene provides world-class culinary education to Filipinos everywhere, and of course, to help promote Filipino food to the world. It is one of the best in the country, as proven by their National Certificate Level 4, awarded by the Technical Education and Skills Development Authority.

Secrets of a Great Chef

With a successful restaurant, culinary school, and consultancy group under his belt, Chef Gene remains grounded. When asked about the secret to his success, he had a hard time answering. “I never really thought of the word ‘success.’ I never even thought of the word ‘goal.’ I was thinking more of words like ‘challenge.’” What’s great about Chef Gene is his attitude towards what he does. “I never considered myself working,” says Chef Gene, indicating how much he enjoys doing what he does. In the end, this probably is his true secret to his success. “One should find the essence of enjoyment,” he advices, not only to would-be chefs or restaurateurs, but to everyone. All jobs can be easy if the people doing them enjoy it, and looking at Chef Gene’s story, it definitely holds true.